Memoirs of Akbar Hashemi – October 19, 1993

The entire day today was spent visiting the historic cities of Bukhara and Samarkand. First thing, Mr. Karimov came. We went to the airport together and flew toward Bukhara in a VIP aircraft. Some companions stayed for negotiations, and Messrs. Velayati and Rouhani came with me. We were on the way for one and a half hours.

At the airport, they welcomed us with trumpets, horns, and sorna, similar to our own naqareh; the program was similar to the entry program into Tashkent. The provincial governor – the ostandar – offered a welcome, and we went straight for the visit. we visited the historic monuments of Howz-e Mahalleh, a school, and a mosque that has been reconstructed while a part remains unrepaired. From there, we went to another place that had several old schools, mosques, caravanserais, and dyeing and silk-working centers. From there, we went to the Ismail Samani Tomb, which is located in a vast park. The tomb is arranged with bricks in 8 styles where the light and color change as its view shifts. He said that in this building, camel milk was used in the mortar instead of water. He also said people come and make vows to the Samani Amir, and they pose questions at the foot of the grave and receive answers at the head of the grave.

I went to the tomb of Baha-ud-Din Naqshband. The trustee there provided explanations. It has been reconstructed and also has a student school. They were very attentive to presenting the mosques and religious centers and proving their own devotion. We saw the statue of Mulla Nasreddin riding a donkey and an old mulberry tree trunk that had a deserted stork nest on it. They said they had migrated because of the noise of the airplanes. There was another nest on top of a minaret.

We ate lunch at their guesthouse; foods similar to our own food. Then we flew to Samarkand. The Bukhara ceremony was repeated in Samarkand as well. Its governor seemed stronger. The city of Samarkand is beautiful and interesting; it is also the birthplace of Mr. Islam Karimov. He said he was there until he was 16. We saw the tomb of [Muhammad] Bukhari in Farhang village outside Samarkand and performed prayers there. Its trustee provided explanations. The government is counting on it as a center for attracting tourists.

From there, we went to the Ulugh Beg Observatory, atop the heights overlooking the city. We also saw its museum; apparently, he is the son of Amir Timur. They recounted notable points about his calculations, at the level of a genius. From there, we went to Registan Square, where three massive old schools were located. On the portico of one of them was the lion and sun emblem, and one had a golden ceiling. It is strange that the communists have kept these; although they have not maintained them and they are in desperate need of repair. There, with Mr. Karimov, we also did an interview with the televisions.

We went to the tomb of Tamerlane. We saw him, his relatives, his mentor, and Ulugh Beg. A few days before the World War, they exhumed the graves and examined their bodies. Some imagine that the outbreak of the World War was because of this very exhumation. Above the entrance door, it is written in tilework that it is the work of Master Salar Esfahani; they say he was among the artists whom Timur brought here from Iran after the occupation.

From there, we went to see the railway hall, which is interesting and magnificent. Then we went to the cultural center of Iranians living in Samarkand. A dense crowd had gathered in the square outside the center. Most are Shia and expressed their feelings for us intensely. We passed in front of the people along with Mr. Karimov. Apparently, they were not inclined for us to go there because of this very crowd, and therefore they added the visit to the railway to the schedule. In the ceremony, the local cleric spoke well in the Persian language. Mr. Karimov and I also spoke and gifts were exchanged. I told him to help them.

We went toward the airport. We passed through a street that was surrounded by new stores and the private sector. They said this street is for pedestrians and the entry of cars is forbidden in it. Overall, Sarakhs province is powerful and the Zeravshan River plays a major role for them.

We flew to Tashkent. At the airport, Mr. [Mahmoud] Vaezi, [Deputy Foreign Minister], informed that the committee's work did not proceed well and they turned back the Homa airplane, which had come today for the opening of the line, from the border. I complained to Mr. Karimov; he said they would compensate.

At the residence, a group of companions came and presented the report of the negotiations and the summary of the trip; it is good. We returned to the residence together. They had illuminated the main streets for our sake. On the way, Mr. Karimov answered many questions. We performed the Maghrib and Isha prayers and moved together toward Nowruz Hall for the dinner banquet. It is a massive newly built hall. Many guests had been invited.

Dinner lasted about 2 hours.Multiple music groups also arrived and performed poetry and songs in Uzbek and Persian languages. The food was also pleasant and similar to our own food. Mr. Karimov accompanied me to the residence again. Effat and the children also said that in their ceremony, there were instruments, singing, and dancing by the ladies, and they mostly sang Googoosh's songs.

At night I wrote the memoirs and watched some television. They have four channels; it is much more diverse than ours. Yasser came and informed that our national football team won against Japan in Qatar today; I became happy and the sorrow of the night before last was somewhat compensated.